We notice an increasing intereset for princess cut diamonds and it's the most popular cut after the round brilliant cut diamond. Maybe it's partly due to the fact that Princess Madeleine of Sweden recevied an engagement ring with a large princess cut stone during the proposal from her (now) husband Chris. The cut process itself is relatively new and was established for real in the 60's but has previously existed in other forms.

Princess cut diamonds is often a diamond cutters dream, due to the fact that you can use a very large part of the rough diamond. A rough diamond is often shaped like a "double pyramid", look at the picture. If you divide it into two then what do you get? Well in almost all cases two pieces that form the basis of a princess cut diamond. In the manufacturing process of a princess cut diamond the typical yiels is often as high as 80% of the rough diamond, compared with a yield about 40% for a round diamond. This explains why ceteris paribus a princess cut diamond is cheaper than a round one.

Our advice is too stick to these general recommendations below based on the 4 C's as well, proportions, and other attributes.

COLOR
A princess cut hides the natural color in a good way because of the layout but since it cannot compete with the sparkle and brilliance of a round brilliant cut diamond you should be a little bit more cautios. We recommend, as usual, H and I for those who choose a ring in Rose or Yellow gold. Make sure that you match the color of any other diamonds. If you purschase an eternity or a solitiare ring with side stones from us, stick to H or G.

CLARITY
The general supply of squareish diamonds tend to have a better clarity grade compared to round ones. The probability that they chip are much large due to the cut, therefore most square diamonds and princess ones included have got a  high clarity grade, most of them higher than SI1. If you buy a loose diamond try to avoid buying an inferior clarity than SI1 and if you do, make sure that the inclusions are not located out at the outer edges, which increases the likelihood of chipping during the setting process.

CUT
Unfortunately the cut grade of princess diamonds is not graded by GIA. The cut grade of round ones is quite a new feature by GIA so hopefully the princess cut diamonds will follow in the near future. Until then we shall try to learn you what to look for, for instance the right measurements to maximize the visual experience a diamond may offer. First of all when having a look at a certificate beloning to a princess cut diamond you will not find the term ”princess” anywhere, instead the diamond cut is descirbed as "square modified brilliant".

Botton line, try to find a diamond with a depth of 65-75%, generally a lower depth is better but often quite rare. Do you see a diamond with a depth of more than 80%, stay away, it means that the diamond is high and too deep and is cut for high carat rather than the best visual performance. The second measure, you must be aware of is the table, the table should be below 75%, preferably less than that. Always try to find a diamond that has less tables than what the depth is in%.

Even if GIA doesn’t grade the cut, AGS do, so if you find it complicated to select one by yourself, please contact us, we can guide you through the purschase process and help you to find a great GIA diamond or one graded by AGS.

We hope this was instructive, please contact us for a free consultation about your diamond purchases!